Reinventing the Summer of "L'Amour" with Jacquemus
Updated: Jul 23, 2020
Simon Porte Jacquemus is the exceptional 30 year old French designer and head of the Jacquemus label. Though a young one amidst the great fashion houses of Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and the like, he continues to cement himself as a designer that may stand the test of time.
Having grown up in the idyllic and open spaces of Provence, perfumed with the inviting smell of lavender from the Valensole fields, no wonder his work is a love letter to the land that raised him and continues to inspire him. During the 2019 Paris summer fashion week, Jacquemus decided to shake things up by inviting his lucky guests to travel to the south of France not just to experience his collection, but to live in his world. A long carpet of bright electric fuchsia-pink carved its way through the purple lavender fields serving as the runway. The who's of who of the fashion and influencer world arrived sweaty, but glamorous to experience the stories of Jacquemus, to bear witness to who the designer is and who he is becoming.
(The show is on YouTube, so be sure to check it out. It's absolutely beautiful. Plus he held an epic dance and pizza party at the end of the show. No wonder the entire event has become iconic. The Show that Re-defined Everything)
Jacquemus recently launched his 2021 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection entitled "L'Amour." The show was nestled in the tall golden wheat fields an hour outside of Paris with a snaking raised beige platform as the catwalk. The onlookers were fewer than last year and were seated one meter apart according to social distancing guidelines, an unfortunate byproduct of the new Covid-life. Without any of us knowing, his 2019 show may have set the precedent for future fashion shows-- outdoors with the wide open air. This year's limited audience is an example of how shows will likely operate for the foreseeable future, which has pros and cons. Pros: less people means less fashion week transportation chaos and the guest list will have to be curated to only invite those integral to the post-success of the collection. Cons: Sales may be affected due to the heavy reliance of influencers that are usually present at shows because they help market the brand to target audiences.
This brings up the question of who should go to fashion shows? Which is a more of a defining factor: a person's social media following or their title at a prestigious fashion magazine? Is high fashion really truly accessible? Is this a sign fashion week will go back to being about the designer's collection instead of an opportunity to get your street style picture? I am no expert on the fashion world, but these are my questions.
What I appreciate about Jacquemus is that his models are racially diverse and have a range of body shapes, a decision that makes him stand out against his older counterparts. He prides himself on crafting stories, not clothes. The stories he tells feature many walks of life, which is part of the reason he connects so well to his audience. Jacquemus is tapped into the pulse of a young generation that doesn't want division or labels, just beauty, freedom, and love.
The Spring/Summer collection is an easy, young, lived in but fresh array of garments. The collection features mostly neutral tones (white, beige, gray, some pops of pastel, and a bit of black). There are high slits, asymmetrical lines, straps and more straps, incredible flowing fabrics, and gold jewelry styling (always my favorite). Jacquemus has popularized the tiny bag trend, which were in attendance again, but I appreciated seeing beautifully designed medium sized leather and whicker bags along with square totes, which to me are much more functional than tiny bags. The women's ready-to-wear has both oversized and fitted looks, while the male garments celebrate the oversized 90's look, a mix of preppy and casual tones, and cargo detailing. I also love that he continues to break gender stereotypes by featuring woman in oversized blazers (an always chic look) and men with purses. I particularly loved the styling detail of one male model donning a beautiful tiny basket-esque bag filled with fresh strawberries. If that's not L'Amour I don't know what is.
Here's the link for the 2021 L'Amour show:
Here's the link to see the entire collection:
Here are some of my favorite looks (all images belong to Jacquemus):